So generally this easter weekend has been a total wash out. With little in the way of climbing to be had due to the damp rock. That said I did manage to squeeze in 5 routes on the Range on Sunday with a good friend…
So over the last few weeks I have been busy working on a new slate guidebook for Rockfax after it appeared that groundup had decided not to reprint or re-work their previous guidebook. As such I have been combing my external harddrives for all the topos I took for the guidebook and working to get a document ready to push through the final furlong to bring to print for the summer.
Work is going well, in part due to the weather stopping me getting outside climbing. Hwever that weather is stopping me getting the new topos I need to finish the guide. As ever we are aiming to bring a visually stunning and highly accurate guidebook to one of the most amazing and unique climbing area in the UK, if not the world.
As you can see above work is well under way and I am really enjoying exploring what people have been up to since the last guidebook. I have also seen a good few ‘blank spaces’ on the topos so just need some time and some bolts!
I was really please to found out that a proposal I submitted to Climber Magazine was accepted and I am now the Coaching Columnist for the only UK based climbing magazine, Climber. You can get the magazine easiest by subscribing to it for just £24…
So having spent another month back in the UK trying to avoid getting washed away in the rain or buried in the occasional snow has meant that I have most been climbing indoors. Over that time I managed to do some pretty good route at the Beacon Climbing Centre, with routes up to 7b.
This week I headed back to the sunshine to work with a long-term client and friend Simon on a short climbing course in Costa Blanca. It was his first time in Spain, but I have already converted him to the ways of hot rock climbing over the winter. I am thinking of starting a cult of hot rock, to be honest.
We had a great day climbing at Toix on Sunday, then got a couple of routes done at Alcalali on Monday before the rain stopped play. We finish the three days off with a day at Guadalest, where Simon kindly offered me a catch on a couple of routes, so I nipped up a 7a and then a 7b. Although they were probably overgraded!!
It is great to be out here again and I really want to start planning for next years courses out here and across Spain. As I love it here. The question is how to go about making next year better than this year?
Check out The Hot Rock Holidays Page for what we are offering next year so far.
So yet again I have been lucky enough to spend another 3 weeks rock climbing and generally hanging out with my partner and her family and friends in Costa Blanca. We have been holed up in a lovely villa near Moraira, just north of Calpe. We had a lovely Christmas dinner sat outside in the sun and a great new year. As well as family and friends we have also managed to get out rock climbing.
Both Lynne and I have been doing really well, with Lynne managing to follow around 5 now, which given the last two years is an incredible achievement for her. She continued to get stronger until the last day of the trip. Sadly though we had to return to get back to the grindstone. For me, that is booking up adventures for people with us here and her it is counting beans for climbing walls.
For me, the trip help reinforce the fact that I now feel like a 7a rock climbing, which for me comes hard, as I don’t consider myself the climber of the grade until I on-sight it regularly. That I have done with several routes of 7a or 7a+ under my belt this trip. As well as some embarrassing failures one on a 6b+! All in all I have spent my time ticking off lovely easy routes at new areas so Lynne can follow me, this sounds like a chore, but it seems to serve as the best warm up you can do, as it means when I do one or two hard routes at the end of the day I seem to run up them.
We also met some inspirational people out in the Costa Blanca, Mike and Chris Simpkins but having had their bus passes a while amazed me with their enthusiasm for sports climbing and getting out on their tandem for bike rides that would kill me. They took us to a ‘crag x’ where we met a load of other let us just say, senior climbers. Again truly inspiring to watch and Lynne was blown away by Angela Soper’s climbing that day. Coming away really determined to get fit again.
Sadly the van broke down but is now repaired but we need one more trip before the season is finished to collect the beast and drive it and Lynne’s mum’s cats back to the UK for the spring.