Busman’s Holiday to Chulilla

Busman’s Holiday to Chulilla

So the last week has seen me meet up with my regular climbing partner Si and a colleague of his Dan to head to Chulilla rock climbing. We have been planning this rock climbing holiday for a while and have had it earmarked for ‘big things’. What exactly that was going to mean was very unclear, we had after all only five days there, after travelling.

In the build-up to the trip Si and I have been spending many evening at the Beacon Climbing Centre training. Whether that was working on strength whilst bouldering or working hard onsights and stamina feats on the lead wall. Probably unlike any other trip we have managed to focus a lot more than the usual turn up and hope for the best. 

The question is did it work?

Well, I think we did OK, although the real debate is on the grading at Chulilla, the softness makes it a really popular area for sports climbers to push their grade. So on day one, we climbed up to 6c+ all onsight, we then worked a 7b, which was pretty tough. The following day we went to an easy crag to warm up and then redpoint the 7b first go that day.

The following day we went to another area and climb a bunch of 6b/6cs and then onsighted a 7b. Which for me is really what I like to do. I am not one for redpointing routes, as my main focus is on trad climbing routes on mountains and sea cliffs, which I predominantly do onsight, ground up. So to get a 7b onsight was a real buzz for me.

The problem then was we had climbed at our max for three days, fingers and bodies were hurting. So I had a bit of a rest day before climbing on our last day. Where I managed to get a 7a+ second go, the irony was for me anyway that route seemed way harder than the two 7bs I had climbed that week.

Anyway, the good news is I really liked Chulilla and feel that for the right climbers, those want to break the 7th grade that this will be another destination in our overseas coaching destinations. The hostel is a great place to hang out and the village and surrounding area are wonderful. The climbs are really long and often more exposed than you’d think. 

If you are interested in some bespoke coaching or you want a training programme put together for a trip next season then get in touch. I am sure we can help you reach for your dreams.

Anyway the list of routes from the four/five days climbing was:

Name  Grade  Style  Date  Crag name 
Conflicto territorial 7a+ ** Lead RP 22/Feb Chulilla
Terreros royos 6b+  Lead O/S 22/Feb Chulilla
Las carcamas de la maja 7a+  Lead 22/Feb Chulilla
El desaguisado 7c+  Lead dnf 22/Feb Chulilla
Presiscrack 6c * Lead O/S 20/Feb Chulilla
El catador de sake 7b *** Lead O/S 20/Feb Chulilla
La costra nostra 6b+ ** Lead O/S 20/Feb Chulilla
Las lituanas 6b ** Lead O/S 20/Feb Chulilla
El Colmillo 6a+  Lead O/S 19/Feb Chulilla
Techno Polvo 6b+ *** Lead O/S 19/Feb Chulilla
Joan 6b+ ** Lead O/S 19/Feb Chulilla
Verano del 97 6a  Lead O/S 19/Feb Chulilla
Dale duro negro 7b *** Lead RP 19/Feb Chulilla
Bolas chinas 6b+  Lead O/S 18/Feb Chulilla
Panza con panza 6c+ ** Lead O/S 18/Feb Chulilla
Animalversion 6a  Lead O/S 18/Feb Chulilla

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