...ROCK CLIMBING, SCRAMBLING, MOUNTAINEERING AND HILLWALKING IN NORTH WALES...GUIDING, COACHING AND INSTRUCTION
For the VS climber there are several amazing routes from the (Hard Severe) Skylon to Lion and Ribstone Crack (VS). The most impressive VS is Shadow Wall, which traverses beneath a large roof. The traverse is not too bad but the crux comes right at…
Dinas Mot can be broken into four major buttresses. Each has a unique character and the angle and even type of rock changes from crag to crag and even mid-route in some sections. This gives the climbing a fantastic variety. The only downside is most…
Scimitar Ridge is main the home to hard routes like the classic E4 and E5s. In particular Roc-Nest Monster at E4 and Killerkranky and the Trufty Club Rebelion at E5. Beyond this the routes remain classsic and none more so than the tick of the crag which is King Wad perhaps the most sorted after E6 in Llanberos Pass after Lord of the FLies on Dinas Cromlech.
As such this crag does not attract too many climbers, however hidden on the cliff are a couple of fine E2s, Troy and Cheron which despite their proximity to each other offer very doifferent challenges.
The crag catches the early morning sun so is good on hot summers afternoons if you need the shade.
Crags of this standard are few and far between, to say this is a world-class is something of an understatement. The routes here have been at the cutting edge of rock climbing since the initial forays onto the easier routes in the 1930’s. After that,…
Clogwyn Y Grochan or the Grochan as most locals refer to it is the easiest of the Llanberis Pass cliff to access. Within minutes of leaving the car you are at the base of a route. Although the climbing really starts at VS, unless you…
The Black Crag is so called as it spends most of its time covered in a sheen of damp lichen and dripping water. However hidden amongst this facard are some fine rock climbs. Including one of the easiest route in the whole Valley. Rib and Slab offers a good intro duction to climbing here, however the walk off is as eye opeing as the run-out slab on pitch two.
There are routes to right of this, the Best being Rift Wall, Orpheus, Yellow Groove and Yellow Wall. All offering something for the aspiring trad climber. Again these are often damp but not as damp as the routes immediately left of Rib and Slab, Zig-Zag and Canol are examples of routes you have to wait for a drought for.
Way over to the kleft but still a park of this crag is a smaller clearer buttress. On it you can see textbook examples of striation lines, left by the passing galcier that smooth this rock over hudnreds of years. Up it is a crack and some pockets, this micro-route is a fantastic E2 call Mabinogion, names after a famous welsh fairytake told to kids that feature king arthur and Merlin who eats mushrooms and see vibrant new colours!