Dinas Mot

Dinas Mot
Dinas Mot is one of the finest crags in the Llanberis Pass and one of the most extensive. Stretching from the East Wing past the central and impressive Nose and onto The West Wing and even past this to the Plexus Buttress. There are so many classic routes across the grades here it is difficult to know where to start.
 

Dinas Mot can be broken into four major buttresses. Each has a unique character and the angle and even type of rock changes from crag to crag and even mid-route in some sections. This gives the climbing a fantastic variety. The only downside is most of the crag faces North, Although a couple of sections, get the early morning and late even sun.

East Wing

This large buttress has a few amazing route these include MPP (HVS), Gollum (HVS) and New Austerlitz (E3). The roof on Gollum is probably larger than flying Buttress Direct at Stanage, but 60 metres off the ground. As such there are few routes of this grade with that much exposure. This crag really does need time to dry.

The Nose

This is one of the main buttresses and certainly the cleanest here. The two descent gullies that divide this crag from the cliff behind act as drainpipes stopping any real seepage. This allows the rock to dry fairly quickly after rain. The climbing starts at Hard Severe and The Cracks is one of the best routes of this grade in the whole valley. Direct Route is also one of the finest examples of VS climbing, although the boulder problem start to the final steep pitch often catches people unaware.

Beyond those routes is a whole host of routes from VS to E3 that are classic. As well as one of the most climbed E8 in the UK, Trauma. This route is a thin overhanging wall with only just ample protection.

West Wing

This crag is often damp but is almost unique as at half height the rock type changes to one that is almost gritstone like in its rough texture. This change in rock really adds to the routes, as you step through a geological epoch in a single step. Black Spring is the classic HVS that is only possible in a drought. Whilst Jubilee Climb has a little battle to reach the fine grit-esque battle through a wide crack in its 3rd pitch. 

Plexus Buttress

This is one of the best crags in the Valley for easy extremes. Plexus and Nexus are two fine E1s on the gritty type rock. Harder routes around the same area like Windmill E3 and a contender for the finest E2 in North Wales, Ten Degrees North. Make this a popular area as soon as it is dry.

 
 

Photo From Crag

Adam pressing his way up the finger crack of The Link on Dinas Mot.

Adam pressing his way up the finger crack of The Link on Dinas Mot.

Derek on the amazing Lorraine Direct on Dinas Mot.

Derek on the amazing Lorraine Direct on Dinas Mot.

The amazing selection of crags on Dinas Mot.

The amazing selection of crags on Dinas Mot.

Katie Haston firing up the Link, E1 on Dinas Mot.

Katie Haston firing up the Link, E1 on Dinas Mot.

A busy day on the plexus Buttress.

A busy day on the plexus Buttress.

Derek on the amazing finger crack of The Link on Dinas Mot.

Derek on the amazing finger crack of The Link on Dinas Mot.

Mark reeves on the esoteric Glass Flipper, a HVS slab made of Grit-type rock in the Llanberis Pass.

Mark reeves on the esoteric Glass Flipper, a HVS slab made of Grit-type rock in the Llanberis Pass.

Adam checking out the sustain HVS/E1 crack of the Link on Dinas Mot, as he converts from sports climbing to trad climbing.

Adam checking out the sustain HVS/E1 crack of the Link on Dinas Mot, as he converts from sports climbing to trad climbing.

Only the best guide to North Wales Climbs ever!!!!

Only the best guide to North Wales Climbs ever!!!!

Derek on the amazing finger crack of The Link on Dinas Mot.

Derek on the amazing finger crack of The Link on Dinas Mot.

Derek on the amazing Western Rib on Dinas Mot.

Derek on the amazing Western Rib on Dinas Mot.

Derek on the amazing Lorraine Direct on Dinas Mot.

Derek on the amazing Lorraine Direct on Dinas Mot.

The second ptich of Super Direct on Dinas Mot, a classic E1 with intricate slab climbing on this pitch and some steeper more powerful moves on the next.

The second ptich of Super Direct on Dinas Mot, a classic E1 with intricate slab climbing on this pitch and some steeper more powerful moves on the next.

An early start lets you catch the morning sun on the Eastern Flanks of the Nose of Dinas Mot with the spectacular view down the valley only adding to the atmosphere of great climbing. Here Adam Riches enjoys the first pitches of Direct Route (VS) on Dinas Mot.

Llion Morris climbing the infamous final VS 5b crux pitch of the Direct Route on Dinas Mot.

Llion Morris climbing the infamous final VS 5b crux pitch of the Direct Route on Dinas Mot.

Adam Riches on the steep and brutal final pitch of Super Direct on Dinas Mot in the Llanberis Pass

Adam Riches on the steep and brutal final pitch of Super Direct on Dinas Mot in the Llanberis Pass

The Classic hand-traverse pitch on the Direct Route on Dinas Mot, one of the finest lines in the Valley.

The Classic hand-traverse pitch on the Direct Route on Dinas Mot, one of the finest lines in the Valley.

Adam Riches making quick work of the final crux pitch of Super Direct on Donas Mot, this was his third day on a sports climbing to trad climbing course.

Adam Riches making quick work of the final crux pitch of Super Direct on Donas Mot, this was his third day on a sports climbing to trad climbing course.

Katie Haston making the final pull round the crux traverse of Plexus's 3rd pitch.

Katie Haston making the final pull round the crux traverse of Plexus’s 3rd pitch.



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