The Moelwyns are a nice collection of venue with some excellent beginner and intermediate rock climbs. The rock is very grippy and we can often climb here when it is slightly damp. Although we do try to avoid this.
As a climbing area, the Moelwyns really does offer a lot of opportunities for people to be both introduced to the art of lead trad climbing and to refining their skills on Lead Climbing Coaching Courses. Essentially there are three main crags on this escarpment.
The furthest away Clogywn Yr Oen has many routes up to VS, as does the Wrysgan Crag. Whilst Craig Y Clipau high above the car park offers some more intense routes from VDiff to E5. On each crag, the rock is similar in the form of quartzite, with positive edges and little in the way of lichen means the rock remains grippy even when damp. Which can come in handy in wales.
The must do routes are Kirkus Direct, Mean Feet and any of the routes around Crimson Cruiser (E5)
Crags and Buttress
Each major area is made up of several different crags, buttress, ridges or faces. You can find out more about these individual areas below.
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Photos from Previous Courses
The classic Vdiff Romulus, is a little neglected but a stunning route.
Climbers on Slack another classic Severe on Clogwyn Yr Oen, Moelwyns.
Adam Riches climbs the amazing final arete of Kirkus Direct on CLogwyn Yr Oen in the Moelwyns.
The amazing backdrop from the Moelwyns across Bleaneau Ffestiniog from the classic Kirkus Direct on Clogwyn Y Oen
A climber on the classic Chic on Clogwyn Yr Oen in the Moelwyns. A popular VDiff.
A climber eyeing up the final moves on Slick, Severe, Clogwyn Yr Oen, Moelwyns
Alex climbing a classic easy route in the Meolwyns on his second day of a sport to trad climbing course
A real and composed Adam Riches at the end of the crux traverse on pitch two of Kirkus Direct on Clogwyn Yr Oen