South Stack Area

South Stack Area
The South Stack Area of Gogarth has some of the least and most adventurous routes at Gogarth. Most people flock to Castell Helen and the classic and relatively solid VS and HVS routes. Although almost a stones through away is the infamous Red Walls with its left and righthand sections of loose and adventurous routes. 
 
 

As such The South Stack area is pretty varied. As even whilst Castell Helen is home to some great routes from VS to E2 on steep slabs/vertical walls. There are also two massive overhangs with extraordinarily hard routes going through them. The Easiest is Kalahari Highway, a fantastic E4 that gets to saviour the second roof on the classic E7 Free Stone Henge.

To the right of this crag lies Yellow Wall a steep crag with an almost cubist illusionary quality to the rock and climbing. Most head for the Creeping Leema E2 or the serious spacewalking on The Moon (E3). Although if it is dry and you have the guns for it then at E5 the Cow literally jumps over the moon. There are even more remote and adventurous crags south this main area.

To the North of Red Wall is Mousetrap Zawn another fantastic area with perhaps the finest E2 in North Wales or even the UK. Mousetrap, which winds an imaginative way up this crag via some fine and adventurous climbing through unique folded quartz and metamorphised sand.

 

Photo From Crag

Adam Harmer on the class Rap at Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarti

Adam Harmer on the class Rap at Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarti

Matt leading out across North West Passage, Castel Helen, South Stack, Gogarth

Matt leading out across North West Passage, Castel Helen, South Stack, Gogarth

Matt following True Moments/Freebird, E2 5c, Castel Helen, Gogarth

Matt following True Moments/Freebird, E2 5c, Castel Helen, Gogarth

Sunset over South Stack Lighthouse, Gogarth.

Sunset over South Stack Lighthouse, Gogarth.

Could you rescue your climbing partner from this situation?

Could you rescue your climbing partner from this situation?

Matt following True Moments/Freebird, E2 5c, Castel Helen, Gogarth

Matt following True Moments/Freebird, E2 5c, Castel Helen, Gogarth

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.

Castell Helen one of the more gentle introduction to sea cliff climbing at Gogarth.

Castell Helen one of the more gentle introduction to sea cliff climbing at Gogarth.

Simon Lake tackles the outrageous third pitch of Kalahari Highway. This shared pitch with Free Stonehenge is actually only E3!!!!

Simon Lake tackles the outrageous third pitch of Kalahari Highway. This shared pitch with Free Stonehenge is actually only E3!!!!

Abseiling into Castle Helen, Gogarth.

Abseiling into Castle Helen, Gogarth.

Simon Lake fully involved pitch two of The Sind, E3 5b.

Simon Lake fully involved pitch two of The Sind, E3 5b.

Simon Lake tackles the crux on the first pitch of Mousetrap, one of the finest E2, sea cliff adventures in the UK. Mousetrap Zawn, South Stack, Gogarth.

Simon Lake tackles the crux on the first pitch of Mousetrap, one of the finest E2, sea cliff adventures in the UK. Mousetrap Zawn, South Stack, Gogarth.

Simon Lake on the 'easy pitch' of Kalahari Highway, E4

Simon Lake on the ‘easy pitch’ of Kalahari Highway, E4

Sea thrift at South Stack

Sea thrift at South Stack

A climber tackles the emotional Blue Remembered Hills on Right Hand Red Wall, South Stack Area, Gogarth. This route is two long and demanding pitches, the first sustain, the second features a mind-bending move to reach a large falke followed by loose tottering.

A climber tackles the emotional Blue Remembered Hills on Right Hand Red Wall, South Stack Area, Gogarth. This route is two long and demanding pitches, the first sustain, the second features a mind-bending move to reach a large falke followed by loose tottering.

A day at Castle Helen

A day at Castle Helen

The White Cliff

The White Cliff – A book about the climbing at Gogarth, with a contribution by SMG Owner Mark Reeves

Simon Lake following the first dusty pitch of The Sind E3 5b, Yellow Walls.

Simon Lake following the first dusty pitch of The Sind E3 5b, Yellow Walls.

llion Morris enjoying comfort of the girdle ledge and the setting sun on Castell Helen, South Stack Gogarth.

llion Morris enjoying comfort of the girdle ledge and the setting sun on Castell Helen, South Stack Gogarth.

Llion Morris climbing the classic Rap, VS, on Castell Helen, sister route to Pel, both of which rouchly follw the abseil lin

Llion Morris climbing the classic Rap, VS, on Castell Helen, sister route to Pel, both of which rouchly follw the abseil line.