South Stack Area

South Stack Area
The South Stack Area of Gogarth has some of the least and most adventurous routes at Gogarth. Most people flock to Castell Helen and the classic and relatively solid VS and HVS routes. Although almost a stones through away is the infamous Red Walls with its left and righthand sections of loose and adventurous routes. 
 
 

As such The South Stack area is pretty varied. As even whilst Castell Helen is home to some great routes from VS to E2 on steep slabs/vertical walls. There are also two massive overhangs with extraordinarily hard routes going through them. The Easiest is Kalahari Highway, a fantastic E4 that gets to saviour the second roof on the classic E7 Free Stone Henge.

To the right of this crag lies Yellow Wall a steep crag with an almost cubist illusionary quality to the rock and climbing. Most head for the Creeping Leema E2 or the serious spacewalking on The Moon (E3). Although if it is dry and you have the guns for it then at E5 the Cow literally jumps over the moon. There are even more remote and adventurous crags south this main area.

To the North of Red Wall is Mousetrap Zawn another fantastic area with perhaps the finest E2 in North Wales or even the UK. Mousetrap, which winds an imaginative way up this crag via some fine and adventurous climbing through unique folded quartz and metamorphised sand.

 

Photo From Crag

Adam Harmer on the class Rap at Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarti

Adam Harmer on the class Rap at Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarti

Sea thrift at South Stack

Sea thrift at South Stack

Dave Rudkin showing you the way on the Crux of Creeping Leema's second pitch, Yellow Walls, South Stack, Gogarth.

Dave Rudkin showing you the way on the Crux of Creeping Leema’s second pitch, Yellow Walls, South Stack, Gogarth.

A climber tackles the top pitch of Rap at Castell Helen, opne of the classic VS's at Gogarth.

A climber tackles the top pitch of Rap at Castell Helen, opne of the classic VS’s at Gogarth.

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.

Matt leading out across North West Passage, Castel Helen, South Stack, Gogarth

Matt leading out across North West Passage, Castel Helen, South Stack, Gogarth

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.

Could you rescue your climbing partner from this situation?

Could you rescue your climbing partner from this situation?

Mark Reeves stepping up into the fine groove of North West Passage a classic E1 on Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarth

Mark Reeves stepping up into the fine groove of North West Passage a classic E1 on Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarth

Simon Lake tackles the outrageous third pitch of Kalahari Highway. This shared pitch with Free Stonehenge is actually only E3!!!!

Simon Lake tackles the outrageous third pitch of Kalahari Highway. This shared pitch with Free Stonehenge is actually only E3!!!!

llion Morris enjoying comfort of the girdle ledge and the setting sun on Castell Helen, South Stack Gogarth.

llion Morris enjoying comfort of the girdle ledge and the setting sun on Castell Helen, South Stack Gogarth.

Castell Helen one of the more gentle introduction to sea cliff climbing at Gogarth.

Castell Helen one of the more gentle introduction to sea cliff climbing at Gogarth.

Sunset over South Stack Lighthouse, Gogarth.

Sunset over South Stack Lighthouse, Gogarth.

Llion Morris foloowing the second pitch of Right Hand Red Wall, at E2 it is the easiest route up Right Hand Red Wall, kit is however a massive adventure and you are best to take 60metre ropes and link the 2nd and 3rd pitches to avoid this belay, which is sub-optimal to say the least!

Llion Morris foloowing the second pitch of Right Hand Red Wall, at E2 it is the easiest route up Right Hand Red Wall, kit is however a massive adventure and you are best to take 60metre ropes and link the 2nd and 3rd pitches to avoid this belay, which is sub-optimal to say the least!

A climber tackles the emotional Blue Remembered Hills on Right Hand Red Wall, South Stack Area, Gogarth. This route is two long and demanding pitches, the first sustain, the second features a mind-bending move to reach a large falke followed by loose tottering.

A climber tackles the emotional Blue Remembered Hills on Right Hand Red Wall, South Stack Area, Gogarth. This route is two long and demanding pitches, the first sustain, the second features a mind-bending move to reach a large falke followed by loose tottering.

Dave Rudkin climbing out through the second roof on Free Stonehenge, E7 6b. This amazing E3/4 roof pitch can now be gain via Kalahari Highway, an E4, meaning many more people can enjy this rediculously exposed pitch. castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarth

Dave Rudkin climbing out through the second roof on Free Stonehenge, E7 6b. This amazing E3/4 roof pitch can now be gain via Kalahari Highway, an E4, meaning many more people can enjy this rediculously exposed pitch. castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarth

Creeping Leema, E2 5c, a classic girdle of the Yellow Wall Zawn. This route cross some amazing territory and most of the climbing is reasonable.

Creeping Leema, E2 5c, a classic girdle of the Yellow Wall Zawn. This route cross some amazing territory and most of the climbing is reasonable.

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.

Simon Lake tackles the crux on the first pitch of Mousetrap, one of the finest E2, sea cliff adventures in the UK. Mousetrap Zawn, South Stack, Gogarth.

Simon Lake tackles the crux on the first pitch of Mousetrap, one of the finest E2, sea cliff adventures in the UK. Mousetrap Zawn, South Stack, Gogarth.

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying the final epic pitch of Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.

Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying the final epic pitch of Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.