South Stack Area
As such The South Stack area is pretty varied. As even whilst Castell Helen is home to some great routes from VS to E2 on steep slabs/vertical walls. There are also two massive overhangs with extraordinarily hard routes going through them. The Easiest is Kalahari Highway, a fantastic E4 that gets to saviour the second roof on the classic E7 Free Stone Henge.
To the right of this crag lies Yellow Wall a steep crag with an almost cubist illusionary quality to the rock and climbing. Most head for the Creeping Leema E2 or the serious spacewalking on The Moon (E3). Although if it is dry and you have the guns for it then at E5 the Cow literally jumps over the moon. There are even more remote and adventurous crags south this main area.
To the North of Red Wall is Mousetrap Zawn another fantastic area with perhaps the finest E2 in North Wales or even the UK. Mousetrap, which winds an imaginative way up this crag via some fine and adventurous climbing through unique folded quartz and metamorphised sand.
Photo From Crag
Simon Lake on the ‘easy pitch’ of Kalahari Highway, E4
Abseiling into Castle Helen, Gogarth.
Adam Harmer on the class Rap at Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarti
Simon Lake fully involved pitch two of The Sind, E3 5b.
Dave Rudkin climbing out through the second roof on Free Stonehenge, E7 6b. This amazing E3/4 roof pitch can now be gain via Kalahari Highway, an E4, meaning many more people can enjy this rediculously exposed pitch. castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarth
Tasha seconding me up Wendigo a classic E2 on Red Walls, South Stack, Gogarth
Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.
A climber tackles the emotional Blue Remembered Hills on Right Hand Red Wall, South Stack Area, Gogarth. This route is two long and demanding pitches, the first sustain, the second features a mind-bending move to reach a large falke followed by loose tottering.
The amazing North West Passage a classic E1, at Castell Helen
Matt leading out across North West Passage, Castel Helen, South Stack, Gogarth
The White Cliff – A book about the climbing at Gogarth, with a contribution by SMG Owner Mark Reeves
Matt following True Moments/Freebird, E2 5c, Castel Helen, Gogarth
Simon Lake tackles the outrageous third pitch of Kalahari Highway. This shared pitch with Free Stonehenge is actually only E3!!!!
Mark Reeves stepping up into the fine groove of North West Passage a classic E1 on Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarth
Sunset over South Stack Lighthouse, Gogarth.
Alex Mason about to cruise up the Yellow Walls Classic The Drunk E6 6b.
Matt following True Moments/Freebird, E2 5c, Castel Helen, Gogarth
Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.
Llion Morris foloowing the second pitch of Right Hand Red Wall, at E2 it is the easiest route up Right Hand Red Wall, kit is however a massive adventure and you are best to take 60metre ropes and link the 2nd and 3rd pitches to avoid this belay, which is sub-optimal to say the least!
llion Morris enjoying comfort of the girdle ledge and the setting sun on Castell Helen, South Stack Gogarth.