South Stack Area
As such The South Stack area is pretty varied. As even whilst Castell Helen is home to some great routes from VS to E2 on steep slabs/vertical walls. There are also two massive overhangs with extraordinarily hard routes going through them. The Easiest is Kalahari Highway, a fantastic E4 that gets to saviour the second roof on the classic E7 Free Stone Henge.
To the right of this crag lies Yellow Wall a steep crag with an almost cubist illusionary quality to the rock and climbing. Most head for the Creeping Leema E2 or the serious spacewalking on The Moon (E3). Although if it is dry and you have the guns for it then at E5 the Cow literally jumps over the moon. There are even more remote and adventurous crags south this main area.
To the North of Red Wall is Mousetrap Zawn another fantastic area with perhaps the finest E2 in North Wales or even the UK. Mousetrap, which winds an imaginative way up this crag via some fine and adventurous climbing through unique folded quartz and metamorphised sand.
Photo From Crag
Creeping Leema, E2 5c, a classic girdle of the Yellow Wall Zawn. This route cross some amazing territory and most of the climbing is reasonable.
Llion Morris foloowing the second pitch of Right Hand Red Wall, at E2 it is the easiest route up Right Hand Red Wall, kit is however a massive adventure and you are best to take 60metre ropes and link the 2nd and 3rd pitches to avoid this belay, which is sub-optimal to say the least!
Mark Reeves stepping up into the fine groove of North West Passage a classic E1 on Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarth
The amazing North West Passage a classic E1, at Castell Helen
Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.
Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying the final epic pitch of Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.
A climber tackles the emotional Blue Remembered Hills on Right Hand Red Wall, South Stack Area, Gogarth. This route is two long and demanding pitches, the first sustain, the second features a mind-bending move to reach a large falke followed by loose tottering.
Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.
Simon Lake tackles the crux on the first pitch of Mousetrap, one of the finest E2, sea cliff adventures in the UK. Mousetrap Zawn, South Stack, Gogarth.
Simon Lake following the first dusty pitch of The Sind E3 5b, Yellow Walls.
Alex Mason about to cruise up the Yellow Walls Classic The Drunk E6 6b.
Sunset over South Stack Lighthouse, Gogarth.
Tasha seconding me up Wendigo a classic E2 on Red Walls, South Stack, Gogarth
The White Cliff – A book about the climbing at Gogarth, with a contribution by SMG Owner Mark Reeves
Could you rescue your climbing partner from this situation?
Abseiling into Castle Helen, Gogarth.
llion Morris enjoying comfort of the girdle ledge and the setting sun on Castell Helen, South Stack Gogarth.
Castell Helen one of the more gentle introduction to sea cliff climbing at Gogarth.
Dave Rudkin showing you the way on the Crux of Creeping Leema’s second pitch, Yellow Walls, South Stack, Gogarth.
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