South Stack Area
As such The South Stack area is pretty varied. As even whilst Castell Helen is home to some great routes from VS to E2 on steep slabs/vertical walls. There are also two massive overhangs with extraordinarily hard routes going through them. The Easiest is Kalahari Highway, a fantastic E4 that gets to saviour the second roof on the classic E7 Free Stone Henge.
To the right of this crag lies Yellow Wall a steep crag with an almost cubist illusionary quality to the rock and climbing. Most head for the Creeping Leema E2 or the serious spacewalking on The Moon (E3). Although if it is dry and you have the guns for it then at E5 the Cow literally jumps over the moon. There are even more remote and adventurous crags south this main area.
To the North of Red Wall is Mousetrap Zawn another fantastic area with perhaps the finest E2 in North Wales or even the UK. Mousetrap, which winds an imaginative way up this crag via some fine and adventurous climbing through unique folded quartz and metamorphised sand.
Photo From Crag
Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying the final epic pitch of Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.
Sunset over South Stack Lighthouse, Gogarth.
Could you rescue your climbing partner from this situation?
Adam Harmer on the class Rap at Castell Helen, South Stack, Gogarti
Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.
Simon Lake on the ‘easy pitch’ of Kalahari Highway, E4
Llion Morris foloowing the second pitch of Right Hand Red Wall, at E2 it is the easiest route up Right Hand Red Wall, kit is however a massive adventure and you are best to take 60metre ropes and link the 2nd and 3rd pitches to avoid this belay, which is sub-optimal to say the least!
Llion Morris climbing the classic Rap, VS, on Castell Helen, sister route to Pel, both of which rouchly follw the abseil line.
Matt leading out across North West Passage, Castel Helen, South Stack, Gogarth
Dave Rudkin showing you the way on the Crux of Creeping Leema’s second pitch, Yellow Walls, South Stack, Gogarth.
Tasha seconding me up Wendigo a classic E2 on Red Walls, South Stack, Gogarth
Simon Lake tackles the crux on the first pitch of Mousetrap, one of the finest E2, sea cliff adventures in the UK. Mousetrap Zawn, South Stack, Gogarth.
Only the best guide to North Wales Climbs ever!!!!
A day at Castle Helen
Simon Lake tackles the outrageous third pitch of Kalahari Highway. This shared pitch with Free Stonehenge is actually only E3!!!!
Mark Reeves Snowdonia Mountain Guides head coach on a day off enjoying Deygo, E3/4 Red Wall at Gogarth.
Matt following True Moments/Freebird, E2 5c, Castel Helen, Gogarth
A climber tackles the emotional Blue Remembered Hills on Right Hand Red Wall, South Stack Area, Gogarth. This route is two long and demanding pitches, the first sustain, the second features a mind-bending move to reach a large falke followed by loose tottering.
The White Cliff – A book about the climbing at Gogarth, with a contribution by SMG Owner Mark Reeves
Creeping Leema, E2 5c, a classic girdle of the Yellow Wall Zawn. This route cross some amazing territory and most of the climbing is reasonable.