Sierra De Toix

Sierra De Toix
Sierra De Toix is one of the go-to areas for the beginner sports climbers in the Costa Blanca. As such it is very popular and can feel like a climbing wall on busy weekends. The climbing whilst polished is still really good though.

Sierra De Toix is a long thin ridgeline just south of Calpe. It has several main climbing areas all of which have worthwhile rock climbing. Whilst there is some trad the majority is well-equipped sports climbing.

Toix Oeste has several main areas the most popular is the smaller Far Oeste, which has a seemingly endless supply of 4th and 5th-grade routes. All of which are worth a star. It can become very busy but even then the atmosphere is relaxed and the backdrop rather stunning and makes you wonder how you could own one of those villa/apartments below.

Toix Oeste offers both single and multi-pitch routes from the 4th grade upwards. Routes around  Chabito come into the sun first and there is more climbing up this hillside towards the area known as Toix TV. With routes like the sustain Monkey Wall a tough 6c to more amenable climbing around the tropical dreams area. Whilst it is possible to hike straight up to this area, it is better to park elsewhere and walk around the eastern end of the ridge, where you get amazing views of Penon D’Ifach and Calpe.

Toix Este is much smaller than the Oeste, but it does have some great routes that get the morning sun. Although the routes are much tough, fingery and polished.

Below the main Toix Area below the southern slope are several sea cliffs. Raco Del Cueva offers an amazing three pitch 6a, on spaced and questionable bolts. Making it a very adventurous 6a. There are other great trad routes here, but the area is much bigger than you think.

Whilst the Pirates of the Carribean sector has the much celebrated and recently re-equipped Parle. Perhaps one of the finest 6a+ adventures in the Costa Blanca, spiralling its way up a large cave system capped by a limestone arch.

As such Sierra De Toix is something of a major venue in Costa Blanca and a place that will keep drawing you back time and again. It has everything from slabs, wall and overhangs.

Photo From Crag

Tiempo Moderno, 6a a thin and technical climb up the side of Toix. One of the fantastic route at the ever popular Toix.

Tiempo Moderno, 6a a thin and technical climb up the side of Toix. One of the fantastic route at the ever popular Toix.

Echo fixe, 4a, one of the many great easy routes at Toic Far Oeste.

Echo fixe, 4a, one of the many great easy routes at Toic Far Oeste.

Tash climbing on Toix Oeste

Tash climbing on Toix Oeste.

Viejos tiempos the old trad route, now fully bolted 4c at Toix.

Viejos tiempos the old trad route, now fully bolted 4c at Toix.

Lobo at Toix, one of the fine 6a that sever as a great introduction to the grade.

Lobo at Toix, one of the fine 6a that sever as a great introduction to the grade.

Viejos tiempos the old trad route, now fully bolted 4c at Toix.

Viejos tiempos the old trad route, now fully bolted 4c at Toix.

Vía yuyuba, a great route on Toix Este, overlooking Calpe

Vía yuyuba, a great route on Toix Este, overlooking Calpe

Abseiling into Parle on Toix Sea Cliff, a classic three pitch 6a.

Abseiling into Parle on Toix Sea Cliff, a classic three pitch 6a.

Tash at exiting the hole at the top of Parle, 6a.

Tash at exiting the hole at the top of Parle, 6a.

Lobo at Toix, one of the fine 6a that sever as a great introduction to the grade.

Lobo at Toix, one of the fine 6a that sever as a great introduction to the grade.

Tash on pitch one of Parle, Toix Sea Cliff

Tash on pitch one of Parle, Toix Sea Cliff

Lowering off from Toix.

Lowering off from Toix.

Dire Straights on Toix Oeste

Dire Straights on Toix Oeste

A climber on the amazing Magical Mystery tour, F5.

A climber on the amazing Magical Mystery tour, F5.

Tash loving the atmosphere after her 55m free hanging abseil into Parle, Toix Sea Cliffs

Tash loving the atmosphere after her 55m free hanging abseil into Parle, Toix Sea Cliffs