Situated above the stunning hilltop town of Finestrat, The Puig Campana dominants the area and its sheer face is an enticing magnet for many rock climbers. Whilst there are any number of excellent routes on this face, it is the main central ridge that is the most popular.
As a trad rotue it is more fitting to give this route british grade of around VS/HVS. Whilst in the main the climbing is VS or below there are a couple of challenging pitches and moves. The lack of fixed gear add to the rotue because you need to be route finding on your ways and whilst the mainline of the Central Rib is easy to follow it is the detail of how you go about this that requires time.
As such some teams who are able to climb that grade on bolts start to eat up time as they look for the easiest route. To me this is more of an alpine adventure as even when you have climbed the 9/10 pitches to the top you are still left with a exposed and challenging descent off right into the main gully. It is this descent that some people stuggle with especially if you are close to getting benighted or indeed it is dark. So slow teams really should take torches as it would be impossible to move without them.
The route and crag in general is extremely adventurous and is truly a gem in the Costa Blanca. It is a one of the greatest chalenges when it comes to multipitch climbing, perhaps only behind some of the routes on the Penon D’Ifach.
Photo From Crag
Finestrat and the impressive Puig Campana, whose Espolon Central is a classic 14 pitch VS trad route.
The Orange House one of the accommodations we use in Costa Blanca. We also rent villas and apartments specifically to cater for larger groups.