Holyhead Mountain

The cliff itself has several buttress and ramps that all have slightly different feels due to the change in angle and nature of the rock. The left-hand ramps offer a few easy routes like primrose slab, Stairs and Teenage Kicks. Whilst the alcove has many great single pitch classics but can be busy down with groups.

The central and most commanding area has King Bee crack a ferocious HVS that is a real pump fest for those not used to the steepness. The classic Katana, E4 is also here as it Bran Flake E2. As such this section offers the best climbing but the grades can keep the crowds away.

Over on the right is the classic routes of Black and Tan and Tension, two must do VS routes, both with something of a sting in the tail. The HVS of The Brothers is another excellent but demanding route, whilst the E1 Breaking the Barrier offers thin and slightly run-out climbing that is popular as people first E grade experience.

All in all this crag offers a wide cross-section of climbing grades, although it can be exposed to the wind. If you don’t want to commit to abseiling into the sea cliff then this crag really does offer an alternative, as does the Range area with its shorter routes.

Photo From Crag