Holyhead Mountain

Holyhead Mountain
Holyhead Mountain is a smaller and friendlier part of Gogarth, that is often many climbers first introduction to climbing on quartzite. The escarpment runs just below the summit of Holyhead Mountain, which is a grand name for this hill above the port town of Holyhead.

The cliff itself has several buttress and ramps that all have slightly different feels due to the change in angle and nature of the rock. The left-hand ramps offer a few easy routes like primrose slab, Stairs and Teenage Kicks. Whilst the alcove has many great single pitch classics but can be busy down with groups.

The central and most commanding area has King Bee crack a ferocious HVS that is a real pump fest for those not used to the steepness. The classic Katana, E4 is also here as it Bran Flake E2. As such this section offers the best climbing but the grades can keep the crowds away.

Over on the right is the classic routes of Black and Tan and Tension, two must do VS routes, both with something of a sting in the tail. The HVS of The Brothers is another excellent but demanding route, whilst the E1 Breaking the Barrier offers thin and slightly run-out climbing that is popular as people first E grade experience.

All in all this crag offers a wide cross-section of climbing grades, although it can be exposed to the wind. If you don’t want to commit to abseiling into the sea cliff then this crag really does offer an alternative, as does the Range area with its shorter routes.

Photo From Crag

One of our clients enjoying the coaching on Pigeon Hole Crack at Holyhead Mountain

One of our clients enjoying the coaching on Pigeon Hole Crack at Holyhead Mountain

A climber on a Lead Climb Coaching Course climbing Pigeon Hole Crack on Holyhead Mountain

A climber on a Lead Climb Coaching Course climbing Pigeon Hole Crack on Holyhead Mountain

Simon Geering on the amazing Teenage Kicks on Holyhead Mountain.

Simon Geering on the amazing Teenage Kicks on Holyhead Mountain.

The pleasant Plimsole at Holyhead Mountain.

The pleasant Plimsole at Holyhead Mountain.

The amazing King Bee Crack at Holyhead mountain.

The amazing King Bee Crack at Holyhead mountain.

A climber toping out on the awesome Black and Tan.

A climber toping out on the awesome Black and Tan.

The White Cliff

The White Cliff – A book about the climbing at Gogarth, with a contribution by SMG Owner Mark Reeves

Only the best guide to North Wales Climbs ever!!!!

Only the best guide to North Wales Climbs ever!!!!

One of our clients enjoying the coaching on Pigeon Hole Crack at Holyhead Mountain

One of our clients enjoying the coaching on Pigeon Hole Crack at Holyhead Mountain

Teenage Kicks, Holyhead Mountain, Gogarth. This is a classic Severe and a perfect stepping stone to climbing at Castell Helen.

Teenage Kicks, Holyhead Mountain, Gogarth. This is a classic Severe and a perfect stepping stone to climbing at Castell Helen.

The amazing King Bee Crack at Holyhead mountain.

The amazing King Bee Crack at Holyhead mountain.

A Pleasant Surprise on Holyhead Mountain, a great HS.

A Pleasant Surprise on Holyhead Mountain, a great HS.



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