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App-guide to Spanish Rock Climbing

App-guide to Spanish Rock Climbing

So over the last couple of years I have been lucky enough to climb across Spain as part of my job. As I do this I like to really get to know an area and as I do I collect data and images in order […]

Winter mountain day on Parsons Nose

Winter mountain day on Parsons Nose

A fantastic day out on Snowdon today. A quick solo of Parsons Nose and then along Crib Coch in really amazing still, crisp and clear conditions. I am so lucky to be able to do this in such amazing conditions, although much prefer those sunny […]

Rope Matters

Rope Matters

So I went to the Brenin last night and attended a lecture by Daniel Gebel on Rope Matters, this guy really is the ulimate geek when it comes to haning on a rope. His presetation was both  entertaining and eye opening. In aprticular I think as a guide I will have to reconsider a few of what used to be common practices, like lowering two people on a rope when scrambling.

His approach to the topic was to show his research, result and conclusions before offering his recommednations. Until the BMC it seems that teh DAV (German Alpine Club) is much more active when it comes to changing educartion practices in light of new evidence. Whether this is a cultural thing or something to do with the set up the the DAV it was an interesting observarion that the acted on some ofn the data they collected from climbing wall and then researched a solution.

Anyway I have written a breif overview of the findings, I have a more indepth review of the talk but essentially the take home messages are laid out below.

 

Rope Breakage

 

  • Don’t have two clients on one rope unless on a uniform snow slope or slab.
  • Lower clients individually.
  • Use parallel ropes systems in ascent with two clients
  • Use Abseils to descend rather than lowers.
  • Be careful of climbers who weigh 100kg or more.
  • Have a back-up rope when practicing rescues techniques.
  • Use 10mm+ Ropes for work (Although an extra 1.1mm of rope only gives you and extra 11% of strength.)
  • Acid damaged ropes are likely to sanp
  • Sharp edged in -situ carabiners can cut ropes.

Half Ropes and Hard falls

 

Take Home Messages:-

  • Do you need to use half ropes?
  • Is the belay device compatible to the diameter of ropes.
  • Using belay gloves make a real difference.
  • Explain the problem and expect the distance to stop to the fall to be great.
  • Place early runners (Jesus Piece)
  • Take great care when leaving the belay until a 6m+ up the pitch.
  • Consider increasing the friction of the belay device by using two carabiners with people up to 90kg.
  • If the climber is greater than 90kg consider not using half or skinny full ropes.
  • Teach clipping both ropes to the first few runners (like twin ropes) as an effective way to prevent the climber being dropped.

Lanyards

Take Home Message

  • Ropes lanyards are the only way to go.
  • If you improvise a lanyard with a sling nylon is preferable
  • If you have to use an improvised dyneema sling keep it under tension

Climbing Wall Accidents and Belay Devices

Take Home Messages:-

  • Teach and use assisted braking devices on indoor and sports climbing courses.
  • In work as a technical advisor pass on this knowledge to wall owners
  • Keep an eye open for guidance from BMC/MT

Belayer – Climber Weight Differential 

Take Home Messages:-

  • Use ground anchors with light belayers where possible
  • Consider using Z-clip or Ohm device with light belayers
  • Train light belayers about the potential of being pull off feet into wall and having a climber land on them.
  • Teach dynamic belaying and ‘Sansa Hand Technique’ to coaches, adult and parents.
New website

New website

If you are here you have found the new website and the news section. Hopefully, over the coming months we will keep you up to date with what we are up to by posting our news here. At the moment we are full steam ahead […]

THE SNOWDONIA MOUNTAIN GUIDES TEAM

THE SNOWDONIA MOUNTAIN GUIDES TEAM

This section of the site is still under development. We have developed a strong team of instructors to help us deliver our courses. MARK REEVES – OWNER AND HEAD COACH Mark has the industry standard qualifications of Mountaineering Instructor and Winter Mountain Leader. However, he […]

Instructor Development

Instructor Development

Our head coach and instructor Mark Reeves has been involved with the long-term development of climbing coaches and instructors for over 15 years. Both in the UK and abroad. He is an expert in helping you discover your weaknesses and develop a plan to work on them so you can arrive at your assessment ready to pass.

Snowdon Walks

Snowdon Walks

We offer great guided walks up Snowdon. With our qualified and experienced instructors, we can find a solution to help get you to the top and back down safely. Give us a call and we can discuss how we can help you reach the highest […]

Rock Climbing Coaching

Rock Climbing Coaching

We specialise in rock climbing courses based in the heart of Snowdonia in North Wales. We have written a guidebook to the area and books on coaching climbing. You won’t find a better provider if you want to learn to climb or improve your climbing. The […]

Winter In Costa Blanca

Winter In Costa Blanca

So last year I decided to spend the following winter in Spain. Mainly because I love it here and it allows me to focus on my passion for rock climbing. As depsite the winter qualifications I possess I much prefer rock climbing. I also reach an opinion a few years ago that global warming had all but killed off winter climbing in North Wales save for the 1 in 5 years that it is good.

So instead I have packed up an headed out to spain with my partner Lynne to spend the autumn getting a tan and toned. Ready for some harder redpointing later in the session. As such the first few weeks has been trying to climb up to 6c/7a everyday I climb. Which is almost everyday, although I have had a couple of nice days off.

I also did some coaching over here which was great fun. Although I was hoping to do more but a last minute change of plans meant I had to miss a couple of weeks work. Never mind. All the more fun climbing!